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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their humble place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.